Hello Everyone,
I would like to present out of the ordinary project - The Freelander OverlandOS.
At the beginning some technical information :
Manufacture Date : MY'2000 (1999-12-13)
Model : 5dr Station Wagon , Java Black, LHD
Engine : 2.0 L-Series Diesel, 8V SOHC
ODO: 212.000 KM
Bought in November 2008, with 158.000 on clock. Across 3 years of ownership I made :
*Complete engine leaks fixing
*Complete new clutch set
*New Viscous coupling with support bearings and UJ's - All OEM GKN's
*Complete rear diff rebuild (new bearings, simmerings ect)
*Rear sub frame mountings fixed
*New all cooper heater matrix (gen)
*Complete new brakes set for all wheels
*New exhaust system
*New starter motor
*New tailgate window regulator
*New tailgate glass
*New engine oil pump
*New cam set (both)
*New engine preheat system
Modifications
*Set of additional monitoring gauges (Boost pressure, Oil Pressure and temperature, battery charging)
*G4 Challenge Safety Devices Roof Rack
*G4 Challenge Safety Devices access ladder
*CB-Radio with dual antenna system (short and long range)
*Garmin GPS on board with external antenna
*Additional roof rack and a-bar spot lights (total 6 two on a-bar, 4 on rack)
*Left and Right Folding LED work light.
*Rear LED work light
*Additional load space lighting
*Additional, separate electrical system for new accessories
*Mantec Fuel tank guard
*Mantec sump guard
*Mantec Exhaust guard
*Diff, IRD and gearbox breathers rised up for safety wading
*Additional fuel heater to protect from waxing
*Center console / armrest from MY'01 Freebie
*D.A.P Rock SliderZ
*complete suspension renew with lift +40 mm with Dobinson springs and Monroe Adventure Gas Shocks. With 205/80/16 AT tires
On the way:
- Safety Devices roll cage
- Adding a front winch
- Adding a torsen helical self locking differential
- Complete drive train renew (new IRD, complete propshaft)
- Complete intake and boost renew (new Garret GT1540 with TiT monitoring, exhaust manifold ect)
Many thanks for Duncan and Brit-car.co.uk staff for help with all spare parts supply
Actual Photos:
Details:
The story
Oil Pump and Engine overhaul
Fighting
Engine goes UP!
Oil all around
, a good washing will be needed...
Cam, tensioner and faulty oil pump
Under the sump :
The pump was replaced :
The new pump with new seal, mounting screws ect. Without oil cooler lines, oil filter, and pressure switch.
Also hippo have complete new cam set : Belts, tensioners, idlers mounting screws (torx and allen):
New FIP Drive Belt and tensioner with mountings.
Oil sump was cleaned.
Old oil pump was terribly worn
. It have so much backlash so its sound like child rattle...
Here you got, a photo of main rotor. As you can see it have large brink on it. I measure clearance between rotor and body, it have 0.14 mm. Land Rover Overhaul manual says that it should be between 0.03 and 0.08 mm. My was almost double of it. So R.I.P
And finally all goes together:
Also we're replace glow plugs with relay, old hand primer pump with failed turning valve. Engine was filled with new coolant and 10W60 Castrol EDGE oil. He wake up after starter shot
...
Finlay relief valve on pump alive. On cold 10W60 it have 3,5 BAR and goes up for 4.5 BAR when press accelerator.
Hot oil (105-108*C) is about 1.5 BAR at idle and 3.8 When step on it
With new FIP drive and correct regulations of injection angle the engine have new life. Dynamics are much better.
When you put accelerator to the floor, all gauges going to the right, boost immediately jumps to 16 PSI, oil pressure rises to 3.8 Bar, revs goes up, and your back are pressed in to the seat
. Great award for that job
Interior renew :
All brand new water shedders for side doors
1 x EJD101480 -> RH/F (blue)
1 x EJD101490 -> LH/F (blue)
1 x ELD100820 -> RH/R (pink)
1 x ELD100830 -> LH/R (pink)
Rear end doors also will be have new water shedders (large and small), and both seals. Ready to be fit. (they comes some time earlier - in winter , but now i have full set)
As interior will be completely removed from car, we need a large pack of bolt/fixings for interior panels
So we have
5 x DYC101470 -> Upper tail door glass finisher fixings
6 x DCE100560 -> Side tail door glass finishers fixings
5 x DYH100980 -> Upper tail door glass finisher fixings socket.
10 x ESR1594L -> Trim fixings - A ,B & C post finishers
30 x MWC913 -> Trim fixings (doors)
7x EBJ100050PMA - Carpet fixings
4x EQQ100010 -> Load space trim
And some small stuff for engine bay
1 x LWY100020L -> New engine oil filler seal
1 x EYB10009L -> Camshaft belt tensioner regulation plug
1 x PCD10016 -> New cooling expansion tank cap (pressure sensitive, should be renewed after few years)
My suspension springs arrived from Australia
Dobinsons C51-12 for front and C51-13 for rear . Direct from Australia. They give 30 mm lift, rest of it will come from new tires and shocks
.
And few days later shocks arrive
From the left front struts: Monroe Adventure "
D0003" Gas Shock Absorber + Dobinsons +30 mm Springs
C51-012
From the right rear struts: r Monroe Adventure "
D0005" Gas Shock Absorber + Dobinsons +30 mm Springs"
C51-013"
Yellows (the same like on CT'98 Freelanders) are rare items. Now only black's are available to buy. I'm very happy that i complete the set (with small troubles
)
Detail photo. Of course shocks are secured now (locking wire).
Main part of suspension is finished, starting to collection of all mounting hardware
This is a first from three part kit with suspension installation parts. We've got every things new.
For future :
2 x EAP7162L, SHOCK ABSORBER MOUNTING RUBBER F/L (G)
4 x FX214057, NUT M12 WATTS LINKAGE DIS2-FL (G)
2 x RHC100050, TOP SHOCK MOUNT SEAL REAR F/L (G)
2 x RNC100120, ROAD SPRING SEAT UPPER F/LANDER (G)
2 x RNE10001L, SHOCK ABSORBER DUST COVER F/L (G)
2 x RNF10001L, WASHER - SHOCK DAMPER REBOUND F/L (G)
2 x RNS100072, PLATE-BUMP STOP DAMPER>SPRING F/L (G)
2 x RPS10001L, CAP - PROTECTIVE (G)
2 x RYF10011L, DAMPER REBOUND WASHER REAR F/L (G)
2 x RYF10013L, WASHER SPRING MOUNTING FRONT F/L (G)
4 x RYG101260, BOLT M12 X 75MM FLANGED HEAD (G)
Second of Three part kit
2 x ANR5116, NUT M12 TRACK ROD FREELANDER (G)
2 x ANR6113, BUMP STOP (G)
2 x ANR6124, REAR SHOCK ABSORBER DUST COVER F/L (G)
4 x FX214057, NUT M12 WATTS LINKAGE DIS2-FL (G)
2 x FY110046, NUT M10 FLANGED LOCKING (G)
1 x QJB100220, BALL JOINT RH OUTER TRACK ROD F/L (G)
1 x QJB100230, BALL JOINT LH OUTER TRACK ROD F/L (G)
2 x RBM100172, ANTIROLL BAR LINK FL (G)
2 x RPC000040, DAMPER ASSY (G)
4 x RYG101260, BOLT M12 X 75MM FLANGED HEAD (G)
New Lower arms :
Rivets , no dangerous bolts...
Pay and cry ~ 120 pounds per one, but all must be perfect
Also i got some stuff to fit lower arms on place
4 x CDU1534L - STAKE NUT DRIVE SHAFT
2 x RDI100010 - Lower arm bolt.
4 x ANR5333 - Bolt M12 for rear bush housing
4 x FX214057 - Ball joint & rear lower arm nuts
2 x RDB100080 - Lower arm rear washers
2 x BDM100050L - Guide pins for rear bush housing
Fight with taildoor seal replacement.
This is a REAL pain
Unfortunately my side finishers are broke when remove them
. So i need to replace them all...
Old seal has been removed, also old taildoor water shredder is gone, and old waist seal...
When fitting new seal to older freelander you need to cut a 15 mm of flange before fit new one.
Some rust fighting. "Guest" have a seat under old seal
Now the seal is fitted but not "glued" to the body. I need to wait for new finishers, and buy some proper sealant to fix it permanently (some glass adhesive is needed). When it will be fit, i need to re-adjust rear screen pre-load. This is REALY hard and frustrate job :scratch:
Seal was "glued" in to the body with glass adhesive. This is not easy and clean job. Large patience is needed :side
But i made it
. Not as beautiful like from factory, but it's good. Fortunately all those place where adhesive is needed are covered by finishers ;wink
Before final assembly , i need to remove some little rust spots on taildoor waste seal flange...
I got few of this... nothing serious, after 12 years.
The "Dremel" tool will be very useful to remove rusty spots quick and effectively. You should have a flexible shaft to operate it easy and precisely. There is no much room.
Before start , remember to protect body, taildoor glass and your eyes - it's IMPORTANT to use a protective goggles.
[imghttp://www.landhelp.pl/my/rust/P1040603.jpg[/img]
To protect glass and make some more space to operate I use some tape to fix screen to back of door construction. Without waist seal glass is able to move to front and rear inside the doors. Also I put some foam to protect it from scratches and damage.
And now we can remove all rust to 'healthy' metal
Now we need to clean surface with pre-paint cleaner, next we use some "rust converter", and when it's dry some primer before final painting
and two coats of black finish paint. That's all
Seal is replaced for new type, glass is regulated (preload). Job is done. I assembly it by using old finishers for now. I got new ordered, but seal will be replaced one more time (that have some damages as i found when installing it). But this will be done on autumn.
I need to replace rear work light cable to longer, and fix it to rack
Time for make some progress on auxiliary electrical system.
This means that I spend all day on funny position of my body... (ouch!!!)
I need to connect all previously installed components such as aux fuse box, new "ground" point, fuel heater and other stuff all together wit plenty of wires
First we must disconnect battery and wait about 10-15 minutes to disarm and make SRS system safe - i don't want to have my Airbag on my face
Next, we make some more room inside engine compartment.
Temporary we need to remove jack and jack mount (two nuts), also we move fuel filter aside, disconnect brake fluid level sensor, and impact sensor harness - we move them to safe place.
Now we have more place to work :
This is a rubber seal. Inside that funny thing we have some wires , and plenty of room for our aux wires. We need to make another hole...
This can be made with "dremel" tool with flexible shaft. But be patient and careful. Rubber is quite hard, and inside we have wires - don't hurt them
Few minutes and we have new hole...
Now we can start to put wires inside. First i place wires for aux fuse box and new ground point...
Here we have new "ground" point.
And this is new connection for aux fuse box.
starting to make a control harness for new electrical system
Removed passenger glove box to make some room for aux electrics control panel connection
One of new 12V plugs instead mirror switch blank...
Aux panel removed outside (it was installed but not connected)
Now time to put all together. Some crimping, soldering, wire cutting...
and finally it's complete. Only i need to add some protection to bare connectors, but it's five minute job before final install.
Center console removed...
Lot of wires...
Cigar lighter replaced with 12V socket...
All new wires are warped with mesh tape...
routing wires...
It's Alive
still routing and warping
Selected place for ACC signal bus...
ACC bus fitted
and connected
Nice and clean fit behind lower panel (windows, lock, sunroof) of center console
Some new dash wiring for AUX warning lights...
Terminals crimped...
AUX warning lights module...
all new looms in engine compartment. Left for winch control (on/off, in/out), middle for warning lights, and right for Heating/electrics control.
All new looms secured in engine compartment.
First try, turning key to "ACC"...
Great Scott! It works
. New system signals that AUX circuits are disconnected from the car. (no power).
FHS Circuit test. It work's too. Green state indicates that Fuel heating system is ready and monitors fuel temperature. If it's temperature drop below 2*C heating will turn on and heat Fuel going to fuel filter protect them for waxing. Heating will back to ready state when fuel in system reach 35*C
After all Freebie goes for small "walk" in woods and sands
Some details about aux electrics :
-BEPMarine components for sea electrics (fuse box: ATC-6W (75A) i bus bars BB-6W-2S)
-Control panel on Carling components (inside passenger glow box)
-Additional warning lights for fuel heater and "electrics" disabled
Wire info
-Battery to 12v BUS : 16mm2
-12V BUS to Fuse BOX- 6mm2
-Ground 6mm2
-Control Harness 1,5mm2
Still working hard on it. I order new flexible brake lines from Goodridge. Those are stainless steel braided and have stainless steel fittings.
Set will be yellow to match struts color
. One set cost 120 pounds for four lines. I need to wait about 2-3 weeks - lines are produced for special order.
On the way is another small gadget - this time for engine :
And Freebie will be have an custom organic clutch system from Black Diamond
Suspension should be fitted on end of September or on first weeks of October
About half year of collecting, chasing parts around the world, and finally suspension set is complete ;D
This is complete suspension set to Freelander 1 MY'00 L-series. It contains 87 parts to assembly so we have a quite large puzzle
Now I need to check that I have all needed parts, and we are ready to begin
First day will be spent at assembling four MacPherson struts - this will be a nice and clean job because we didn't use any old parts from the car. Next Freebie will be dissembled, complete old suspension (struts, lower arms, arms fixings, strut bushes ect. ) will be removed. When this will be done new lower arms will be fitted on place.
Next complete MCP struts will be fitted in to the car, new track rod ball joints and stabilizer drop links also will be fitted. Final thing is setting new Camber and Geometry values
Special Thanks for
Duncan Mansfield and Brit-car Ltd. Team for support and helping with all Genuine Land Rover Parts.
Suppliers:
- Dobinsons Springs from Australia in cooperation with
MTM Profi
- Front Monroe Adventure shocks -
LRDirect.com
- Rear Monroe Adventure shocks-
Mailorder4x4
- Front lower Arms -
LRDirect.com
Also i need to make some protection to my fuel lines from fuel cooler... those have bad routing and fray from engine cover contact.
So i put it in to sleeve.
same thing with PAS and AC hoses - but here we need to use LR spacers CDU2153L and fit them on proper place (no contact between hoses)
Check my intake manifold and IC hose too
It's a little bit oily there. Not very much oil, but i think that compressor side sealing is on final road to his end. But i leave that to the end of his life and i fit new turbocharger as I planned.
Finally lifted with dobinsons springs and monroe adventure shocks
. NO inner fender cutting (about 10-15 mm space when fully dropped suspension)
Drives perfectly. He is stick to ground on sharp turns, i observe better handling too.
Now i need larger tires
i think about BFG AT 225/70/16, so they give another 17 mm ground clearance
t last
new tires are on place
New 205/80/16 MP71 AT vs old 215/65/16
Fitted
we have some nice extra clearance here -> 320 mm between sill and ground
On rear he have 235 mm between lowest guard point and ground
And on front it's 240 mm between ground and sump guard.
I'm very happy with that. Total no rubbing on inner wings, car is quiet on road. I notice some ratio change, but now he can drive itself on Idle RPM's (manual gearbox, just put in on 1st, gently loose clutch and it's drive on their own without touching accelerator
)
Still working/research about mounting LSD Diff
Owners of cars to VIN 1A 576765 (about start of 2002 MY) must found a new revision of diff casing/complete diff witch incorporate a larger diff carrier bearings. You need TVK000180 or second hand diff from MY 2002-2006.
If you have car post 2002 or VIN described above you can use your old diff casing.
Main part of our modification is a Quaife QDF31K Helical LSD Diff. It cost about ~714 pounds including VAT.
By the way we should take care about other diff parts, and make a little renovation :
2 x TZZ100160 - half shafts bearings
2 x TOC100000 - half shaft seals
1 x TZZ100150 - pinion flange bearing
1 x TXT100010 - collapsible spacer
1 x TZZ100140 - pinion bearing
2 x TZZ100170 - Diff carrier bearings
1 x FTC5258 - Pinion seal
1 x FTC5317 - pinion dust cover
Few words about bearing difference
Our new diff needs a larger bearings - D3- 41.1 mm
Freebie diffs have two types of it
TVK000180 diff carrier bearings are :
41,275 x 73,431 x 21,43 mm
Old diff revision bearings are:
38.1 x 65.08 x 18.03 mm
So in newer ones those are wider, and have larger bore. So also we will be have changes in diff casing
Also i found on web some pictures :
this is our standard two satellite open diff
And this is our new Helical LSD Diff
Much stronger than standard.
Safety Devices Roll Cage for 5dr Freelander - CT style.
Full set
Very nice brand, will be look good behind rear side window
Center bar (B - post) and one of side bars
Protection padding
New dashboard side wall - unpainted (will be also black)
Here the side pipe comes down to floor
It is a perfect sized to the car. We try to put one of the bars for try-up, but it's not possible without removing trim panels
I would like to thanks Sarah and Jake from D44 , I'm relay impressed about service quality and I appreciate that they keep it until we're ready to get it. .
THANK YOU!
Cage waiting for spring, but here we've got some for long, cold winter evenings. ;wink . A donor differential for my Torsen LSD diff project.
Very nice DANA 51441/4756- from beginning of production new "uprated" rear diff for Freelander.
Precisely it is from January 2002 , 3.21 ratio, 45 teeth crown and 14 teeth pinion.
Good quality of casing. No sights of any damage, also rear cover looks good - of course all of that is to restoration, cleaning and painting.
Pinion also didn't have backslashes, so maybe new Ashcroft's pinion & crown wouldn't be needed, but decision will be made after complete disassembly .
Few words about numbers for successors :
From numbers stamped on side of casing we're interest of:
47098 174-002
47098 - old model from MY'98-02 , smaller differential carrier bearings : 38.1 x 65.08 x 18.03 mm
51441 - new uprated model from vin 2A374725 MY'02-06 larger differential carrier bearings: 41,275 x 73,431 x 21,43 mm
For quaife torsen diff we need second type.
Most actual photos
This was taken when some snow storm comes through...
If you would like i'll will update this thread with next things